It’s not a Trip unless you see Colors!

There are a few rides that you can only do at certain times of the year and it’s these rides that I look forward to all year long. It’s the “Fall Foliage” ride. I’m sure different parts of the country have variations on this theme, but here in the Desert Southwest that means Colorado Aspens.

Now everyone has their favorite place to go to experience this type of scenery. The top in my book has to be the Southern San Juan Mts. The Cumbres Pass East of Pagosa Springs is a classic, with the Cumbres to Toltec Steam Railroad running through it. Something about hearing the wail of that locomotive as it makes its way up the pass in the golden glow of Autumn.

Another favorite of mine if you really want to experience the colors of Colorado is the La Plata Mts. (West of Durango) and specifically the Dolores River Valley. The Stoner Mesa area has to rank up there as one of the most spectacular stands of Aspens in all of Colorado. It is huge and covers such varied terrain.

We have trek-ed to Dolores the last couple years to enjoy the experience of this spectacle and it never fails to impress us. This year was a little disappointing in that the Autumn hit cold and hard early on and the leaves literally got burnt on the trees. We saw many Golden and Green colors from the stronger stands, but many leaves were also brown and still on the trees. It’s no matter though, the colors that were to be had always leave me feeling like I am experiencing the end of another beautiful season of riding. It may signal the end, but it also represents the best.

A couple years ago we did a ride up Eagle Peak Trail and then came back down the Stoner Mesa Trail. I wanted to duplicate this ride with more of a “through ride” experience and I wanted to stay longer up high. Pouring over the maps, I decided that gaining the Eagle Peak could be done from a number of directions, but the one that made the most sense, based on where we were camped, was to head up the Johnny Bull Trail to the Calico Ridgeline and across to the Eagle Peak Trail descent.

It was a shorter approach to the ridgeline than the actual Eagle Peak Trail and I knew how rugged that trail was. I was a little nervous about how difficult this approach would be. It would be a leap of faith, because we could end up having to sling our bikes up steep ledge climbs. And people wouldn't have been too happy about that. But then again, it is an epic!

Pouring over the maps seem to indicate a stout initial climb up some switchbacks and then a climb along the contours up to a steep climb to the peak itself. That’s where the uncertainty lay.

I put a shout out to "El Freako from Rico”, Mr. Jeff Hemperly, but he had never attempted a climb up that side of the Calico Ridge. He did give us feedback that a friend of his who had ridden it, didn’t suggest doing it. Ok, not quite what I wanted to hear, but that's just one perspective. And they ride Single Speed and we were "Geared" so maybe it wouldn't be too bad. At least that's what I told myself for reinforcement. With little in the way of local knowledge, and sharing what Jeff had to say, we decided to go for it. Isn't that what an adventure is all about after all?


We drove up Denton Road from our Camp Site at the West Dolores Campground and found the vaguely marked sign for the Johnny Bull Trail about 3-4 miles up from the Stoner Mesa Road cutoff. We geared up and off we went.

First we had to get across the Dolores River. It is shallow here but somewhat wide and you had to roll it because there is no rock walkway. Just be prepared for that initial challenge. Then sure enough the first mile or two were climbing up a steep well defined trail through worn but ridable switchbacks. A couple miles up the trail leveled out and sure enough climbed slowly up along the contours. Aren’t Topo Maps great!

We rode along through some nice meadows and before we knew it we had reached the intersection with the well known Calico Trail. I guess the best I can say is the Johnny Bull is not an easy trail to climb, but it is a nice track and it isn’t what I would call heinous by any stretch of the imagination. I guess we lucked out, or was it good map reading? Ah, what do goat's know anyway.

From here we encountered a stiff hike a bike for about a mile or less up a skree field to the ridgeline below the Calico Peak. The scenery up on the ridge was spectacular! The views across the valley of Anchor and Expectation Peaks, with Calico and Eagle Peak along the ridge, were all about why I ride my bike. Some folks may find their thrills in other places, but mine is on top of the world!





From the top of the Calico Ridgeline we had a mostly downhill run to look forward to from here. About 20 miles of downhill fun! The ride down the Eagle Peak Trail to the Stoner Mesa Trail is one of the best downhill adventures this side of Monarch Crest in my book! It really is that awesome.




This was an epic ride no doubt. Not as daunting as the Wheeler Trail adventure but the altitude gain will challenge you. However, the variety of terrain is spectacular and with the Fall colors it just seems to come alive. Once pointed downhill, the 5-6 miles of pain that Johnny Bull provides begins to fade into the splendor of the season. Autumn doesn’t get much better than this!

Here’s a link to our pictures at the Stoner Mesa Photo Album.